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Mutual Restriction Problems and Solutions

It'south no surprise that brake issues are some almost common bug facing most vehicle owners - Braking systems have many parts that wear out and need to be replaced every few years.

In a brake system, brake pads, rotors, restriction shoes, and brake fluid require the most frequent replacement. Problems with the master cylinder, wheel cylinders, brake line, proportioning valve, brake booster are less common.

Throughout my years of an machine mechanic, I take seen many problems with brakes in both cars and trucks. I have posted the nigh common brake bug and solutions below.

If yous still have whatever unresolved vehicle problems or questions, yous can ask an auto mechanic online. For expert answers specific to your vehicle's make and model, I recommend JustAnswer Motorcar. They accept a large pool of certified mechanics to answer your questions for a small fee and you tin can also browse their answers to other users for costless.

Restriction Questions and Answers

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Traction Control and ABS Lights are On

My traction control and ABS lights come on about 1 mile of driving. They stay on about of the time. What can I do to fix my brake problem? (2004 Chevy Avalanche)

Answer: The first affair that needs to be done is a code check. If these lights are on so in that location are codes fix in your figurer. Nigh auto parts stores and many repair shops will do this for free. Afterwards you lot know the code you will be able to narrow down the possibilities.

The most probable crusade of your brake bug is the wheel speed sensors on your vehicle. Many times they become bad and the computer is no longer able to read them to tell how fast each bike is spinning and so it turns off your traction command organisation and many times your ABS system every bit well until the problem is resolved. In that location are many other things like the ABD command unit, the calculator, wiring, etc. that can cause these lights to come up on merely they are not equally likely.

Information technology is important to get this brake problem fixed as the arrangement will not work correctly until it is repaired. Unremarkably, if a speed sensor does demand to be replaced, it is not an expensive ready.

Brake Pressure Trouble

I'yard having machine brake problems. My 1992 Toyota Camry blew a leak in the left forepart brake hose, (just past the midway clamp).

The pads had been replaced about 10 days prior and other than the visual restriction fluid present in the wheel well in that location was no notable loss of pressure level while driving. We replaced both the hose and the flexible line as the coupling between the two had rusted and we couldn't separate them. All the fittings are tight, checked numerous times. We bled all the brakes, RR, RL, FR, FL, twice.

Problem is...lots of brake pedal pressure when the car is running merely as shortly as you start it and depress the brake pedal, it goes to the flooring. We did not bleed the Primary Restriction Cylinder, (that was going to be our next stride). Any other suggestions?

Reply: It sounds similar the classic symptoms of having air in the brake lines. Y'all normally do not have to bleed the main cylinder when y'all replace a restriction line, but it is possible to get air in information technology.

I suggest yous get back and drain them one more than time starting with the one that is the furthest from the principal cylinder. When bleeding the restriction lines be sure that the main cylinder is Ever full of fluid. It would even be a adept idea to get someone to watch information technology constantly while the brakes are being bled.

When bleeding the brakes I commonly open the bleeder valve and give the pedal about five expert pushes, and then agree the pedal to the floor and close the bleeder valve. Afterwards the valve is closed so permit up on the pedal and open the valve only a lilliputian and push down on the pedal and agree it to the flooring and close the valve. Do this about v times for each bike.

This procedure should get all of the air out. I take rarely had any problems when bleeding brakes like that.

Leaking Restriction Fluid

My car is leaking brake fluid within drivers wheel well and the pedal goes to flooring. I'm sure the leaking is the cause for the pedal to go to floor. How difficult will information technology be to supplant and repair the problem assuming its a leaking line. (1996 Chrysler Cirrus)

Answer: Thanks for using my website and asking me your question. There are two common things that tin can cause this type of problem.

The showtime thing that might be happening is that you might have a caliper piston seal that is leaking. If this is the case information technology is just a thing of replacing the brake caliper and bleeding the brake organization.

The most probable cause of this problem is a bad brake hose. Many times they suspension where the metallic line turns into a flexible condom line. If this it the case then you just demand to replace the line and bleed the restriction organization.

Either fashion it should not be too hard or expensive to repair. I promise this helps with your brake fluid leak problem.

Restriction Low-cal is On

My 1996 Acura Integra LS brake light on the nuance stays on without the brake beingness on, what brake problems should I expect into?

Answer: The offset affair to check is that your emergency brake is not stuck on. Endeavor to appoint information technology then let it become and come across if that makes the light go out or flicker or anything. This is a mutual cause for brake issues.

Another thing to look into is the switch at the acme of your brake pedal. If it is faulty, it might cause your brake calorie-free to stay on. An easy way to check this is to have someone spotter the lights while you lot pull upwardly on the brake pedal. If the brake lights go off then that is most probable your car restriction problem.

You also should check your restriction fluid level in the chief cylinder reservoir. If it is low information technology will cause the light to come on even though your brakes are working fine. If you lot find that information technology is low then you need to track down the leak.

There is no reason for the brake fluid to be depression unless information technology is leaking out somewhere. You'll desire to check around your wheels to run into if a wheel cylinder or caliper is leaking. If no, look under your dash where the brake pedal goes through the firewall. If it is wet, it ways the master cylinder is leaking. Finally cheque the master cylinder to see if it is leaking externally.

Power Surges and ABS Light is On

I just spent $i,200 having repairs done on my 2003 Windstar. I had the front sway bars replaced on both sides, front wheel bearings replaced on both sides and the ability steering fluid motor replaced.

The power steering fluid motor was cracked and was seized to the frame and they had one heck of a time getting it off.

Anyway, as soon as I left the lot and put the brake on for the first time the brakes crunched (just similar yous are sliding on ice in the winter) and the ABS light came on and stayed on. The only fourth dimension it goes out is when I plow my vehicle off, but it goes on the first time I restriction over again.

Also when I put my cruise control on, the van surges forrard and then slows down (as much every bit x kmh per surge) . For example if I put it on prowl at 100 kmh (62mph) it will surge and elevate betwixt 110 kmh and ninety kmh simply does non stay steady at 100 kmh like information technology used to. As well I observe while it is surging and dragging the rpm meter is as well going up and down.

These two issues were not there before I had the other repairs done. I know I take to accept it back in to be fixed but would like some idea what the problems are and if (in your opinion) these were acquired by something they did during their repairs.

Thanks for your help!

Answer: Thanks for submitting your question. I know it is very frustrating when you take your car for repairs and you have issues as soon equally yous drive off the lot.

The first thing you lot should do is take your motorcar dorsum to the store that did the work. It definitely sounds like something that they did wrong. This is why:

Each wheel has speed sensors that are built into the cycle bearings. These speed sensors tell the cars computer how fast each wheel is turning. They are also used for ABS braking - If the computer sees that the wheels are sliding, it will activate the ABS system. These sensors are likewise used for the cruise command system. This is how the cruise control computer knows how fast the car is going.

If the speed sensors are not working properly, then it tin cause all the problems that you are having. Most likely the shop did non get the wheel bearings installed correctly, or they could have even gotten the wrong parts. Either style they demand to repair this car restriction problem and they need to do information technology at no charge to y'all.

Vehicle Shakes When Stopping

Hey, I've got a 2004 Ford F-150 XLT Crew Cab with low km's (30,000). I picked information technology up 2 months agone and take started noticing that the truck shakes when I come to a complete stop. It doesn't happen if I VERY gradually come to a end, but regular stop and go metropolis driving or, if need be, heavy braking situations. It also only happens after the vehicle has come to a complete stop.

I watched the RPM'south and they don't move, but it about sounds similar the truck is stalling out. Any information would be great!

Reply: The start thing I would do is wait for a vacuum leak. Information technology sounds like yous might accept one. It is possible that your brake booster is leaking which could cause your shaking. There is also a PVC elbow on the dorsum of the intake manifold that is prone to dethrone and cause leakage. These are the commencement things to cheque.

The next things to check are the IAC and the Throttle Body. Both of these should be cleaned with a good restriction cleaner. You could as well clean the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) these will sometimes crusade this blazon of problem.

The in a higher place mentioned items are the most likely causes of your truck brake bug. That said, there are other things that could cause problem with brakes, such every bit injectors, ignition coils, Frazzle Gas Recirculation (EGR) arrangement trouble (The EGR valve could be sticking open up), etc.

Without being able to read the datastream that the computer is putting out, it is incommunicable for me to give you much more assist than this. I think if y'all check all of the items I've listed you will probably find your restriction trouble.

Brake Stays On

When I apply my brakes they feel like they stay on. The rotors and wheels get very hot! I have a 2003 Chevy S10 4x4 V6.

Respond: Thank you for sharing your brake question. In that location are quite a few things that tin can crusade this type of restriction trouble. If all of the brakes seem to stay on, the master cylinder could be the culprit or you could take a problem with a brake hose. Y'all could also have a problem with your ABS (Anti-lock Restriction System).

If the braking problem was only with one wheel, I would say it is probably your brake caliper sticking... merely since information technology sounds similar it is happening to all of your wheels, and so that is most likely non the case.

I recommend that y'all check your brake fluid to be sure that it is non actually night and degraded. If you have done all of the above but you are still having problems with braking, so you should take your vehicle down to a good mechanic or brake shop.

Squeaking Brake Problem

I have a 1994 Lexus LS400 with 161K miles. I recently took information technology to Mienke for front metallic break pads. The breaks are fine in the morning, in the afternoon they start to squeak. I paid $125 for lifetime breaks. Is this normal? Should I have it back to Mienke to get my money back and get to the dealer. I commonly practice almost repair work at the Toyota dealer.

Answer: Cheers for your question Laverne. Restriction squeaking is a common complaint and there are many things that can cause this brake noise problem. Some things that might exist causing your brakes to squeak are low quality brake pads, long life pads, rotors that need to be "turned" (smoothed out past removing a small corporeality of their metal surface), grit and crud, etc.

I'm assuming that you did not accept this brake trouble before you took your motorcar to them and so the squeaking brakes are caused past the piece of work that they did.

Metallic pads have modest pieces of metal in them and some brands take more others. The more metal, the more probable they are to bleat. Brake pad manufacturers use metal in place of the asbestos that they used to use.

"Lifetime" brake pads commonly comprise more than metal in them which is why they final longer, unfortunately the side effect of having more than metal is the fact that they will probably also squeal a lot more.

I would recommend that you return to the shop that replaced your brakes and just have them accept a look to make sure that at that place is nothing incorrect. I suspect that everything is fine, but it does not hurt to have them take another look.

Parking Brake Problem

My parking brake goes to the floor but will not hold the vehicle. What is causing my restriction issues? (2002 Chevy Avalanche)

Reply: There are several things that might exist causing your brake problem. The first is that your parking brake shoes might be worn out or they could be misadjusted.

There could be a problem with the parking brake cable. It could be broken or came loose somewhere. You demand to get under your vehicle, find the cable and check to see if information technology is loose. These are the most mutual things that could be causing your brake problems. It should not cost a lot of money to fix this restriction problem.

Restriction Pedal Goes to the Floor

1992 Sedan Deville. Of a sudden, the brake pedal goes down and feels similar the motorcar won't stop. Repair eye tried bleeding the brakes. They said the right rear wheel cylinder was blocked. They said to supersede both cylinders.

My brakes did same thing on fashion home. No leak, fluid full. Brake pads are fine.

Respond: The most likely cause of your restriction problem is an internally leaking master cylinder. This is a common problem with brakes.

What happens is the seals inside the master cylinder go onetime and brittle or crack so they cannot concur the pressure level that is needed in your braking organization. Since information technology leaks on the inside, at that place is no external leaking.

If in that location are no leaks on the exterior of your motorcar, then at that place are very few other thing that would lead to this type of brake trouble.

Vehicle Shakes When Stopping

I take an 2005 Chevy Colorado with a transmission transmission. When I come up to a cease the whole truck shakes. Some have told me it is the clutch. What could it exist? Cheers, Jeremy.

Answer: The showtime thing that I will say is that if your truck shakes merely when the brakes are applied then you probably have warped rotors or drums. This is a fairly common restriction problem. If the steering bicycle shakes during braking, information technology indicates warped rotors. If information technology only shakes when you utilize the brakes but does not actually come through the steering wheel, then it is nearly likely because of warped drums.

If your truck shakes when you are not using your brakes, then there are some other possibilities for your brake problems. If your have worn suspension parts or faulty U- joints, it can cause this probelm as well. It isn't likely for a bad tire, bicycle bearing or clutch to exist the culprit, it is still possible.

The first thing you demand to do is figure out if this shaking only happens when you brake. I suspect it does and if and so then you probably need new rotors and/or drums.

Brakes Lines are Coiled

What is the reason for brake line to be coiled between the chief cylinder and poportioning valve? This is on a 1960 Chevy Impala with unmarried reservoir.

Reply: Neat question! This is something that many people have wondered and something that I wondered for many years. The answer is really very unproblematic and probably not what most people expect.

The reason for all the coils in your brake line is simply to add flexibility. Usually a restriction principal cylinder is located on the vehicle's firewall and the proportioning valve is unremarkably bolted onto the frame. The frame and torso are attached with rubber mounts that actually give quite a bit of flexibility when doing things similar stopping quickly.

If the brake lines were straight when this happened then would bend and eventually be weakened and break. With the brake lines coiled they is plenty of play in the line to let the torso and frame move independent of each other.

Potent Restriction Pedal

I accept a 1980 Chevy C10 and the people that have recently put it back together and rewired some stuff. I'm non quite sure what they have done. The brake pedal is very potent you lot have to button downwardly very hard and I'm a pretty big guy. I was just wondering if bleeding the breaks would help or if it was more than likely the booster? What do yous think?

Answer: The about likely crusade of your truck restriction issues is the brake booster. The booster is what makes the pedal easy to push downwards. Information technology could be something every bit elementary as the large vacuum hose to the booster not being connected.

If someone has done some brake piece of work and they are really stiff later on, then they should take your vehicle dorsum to rework the brakes.

Restriction Pedal Clanks When Pressed

01 Chevy Malibu 3.one V6. Just did brake job and changed rotors, only now when I press the brake pedal it clanks. Checked caliper bolts and are tight? Not sure if rotors were non machined correctly and center is to big for hub and also much play in the rotor? Why am I having these car brake problems?

Answer: Thanks for sharing your brake question. There are several things that could be causing problems with your brakes. The first thing to check is your caliper bolts and slides. Be certain that in that location is no play in them and that they are tight.

Next, make certain that you lot take the correct shims installed. Near brake pads come with shims and if they are not installed or the wrong ones are used it could crusade this blazon of problem.

It is also possible that the rotors were not machined correctly, but that is non likely. If I were you, I would return to the place where yous got the rotors and ask them to check if the dissonance is acquired by the rotors.

You lot could also have your car to a repair store and just have them listen to your brakes. They might be able to quickly tell you what is wrong likewise.

Brake Pedal Goes to the Floor

Hi, my car is in the garage now. I changed all the restriction system, bled the brakes, placed a new master cylinder and the restriction pedal still doesn't piece of work. What could be the problem? Is information technology with Ford'due south computers or what? Any help? (1998 Ford Windstar)

Answer: The first thing I need to know is if you bench bled the master cylinder. When you lot buy a new one, yous demand to bleed it out before installing it on your auto. If you did not do this, you volition need to remove it and make certain all of the air is out of it. There are usually instructions on the packaging to do this.

It sounds like you only take not gotten all of the air out of your organisation yet. If the main cylinder has been bled then go through and bleed the organization again. Be certain to accept someone watch the master cylinder the whole fourth dimension and keep it total. If yous permit air into the master cylinder while bleeding the brakes you lot will just have to bleed them more than.

When y'all drain them over again, be certain to have someone pump the pedal five to ten times for each bike then take them hold the pedal down while yo close the bleeder valve. Then take them allow upwardly on the pedal and then open the valve and have them push downwards on the pedal and shut the valve when it is down. Then this near five times for each pedal and you lot should get all the air out.

You too might demand to drain the ABS module. If y'all bleed them all again and the pedal still goes to the flooring then this is probably what you will demand to do.

Clacking and Tickling Noise

I'm the owner of a 1994 Jeep Yard Cherokee laredo 4x4 with the 4.0 50 i6 and an automatic manual. The problem is that on a hot day in heavy stop and go traffic (particularly when going from the highway to stop and go traffic) the matter develops a very loud clacking or ticking noise.

This racket varies with engine speed and occurs regardless of being in gear, reverse, neutral, or 4wd or not. The odd part is, the racket always completely goes away if the vehicle is put in park, and resumes if put back in gear. This dissonance also goes abroad completely if the vehicle is turned off and is given sufficient fourth dimension to cool. This racket is too non heard in the wintertime.

The fact that it goes away when put in park makes me recollect that information technology is something with the automatic transmission. That said, I had already opened the thing up and serviced the matter (including replacing bad gears) 3 years (35,000 miles) ago. The torque converter was besides replaced at the time. I really promise I don't need to drop the transmission once again, but I can't think of what else it could exist. Thanks for whatsoever communication.

Answer: Hi, Chris. The only thing that immediately comes to heed when I read your question is torque converter to flywheel bolts. If they get loose they can cause the verbal type of ticking or knocking that you are having. This is the only thing that makes sense to me. Without hearing the racket, this would be my best guess.

It is usually easy to tell if they are loose merely past removing the embrace between the engine and tranny and shine a calorie-free up at that place to come across if they are loose or missing. This is a fairly common brake problem.

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For Max Braking Leave in Gear or Neutrel UPDATED

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